[Demo] Kitchen Faucet Replacement

Locate the hot and cold water supply lines connected to the existing faucet. Under the sink, you should find two shut-off valves. Turn these valves clockwise until they are fully closed. This will stop the flow of water to the faucet.

Using an adjustable wrench, carefully loosen and disconnect the water supply lines from the shut-off valves. Be prepared for a small amount of residual water to drain out.

Access the area under the sink where the faucet is installed. Locate the nuts that hold the faucet in place. Use a basin wrench or adjustable wrench to loosen and remove these nuts. There may be several nuts, depending on the faucet design.

Once the mounting nuts are removed and the supply lines are disconnected, carefully pull the old faucet assembly upwards from the sink. It may be stuck due to old putty or mineral deposits.

Using the plumber's putty knife and a suitable cleaner, thoroughly clean the area on the sink deck where the old faucet was mounted. Ensure all old plumber's putty, sealant, and grime are removed for a clean surface for the new faucet.

Unpack the new faucet and identify all its parts. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions to attach any necessary components, such as the integrated supply lines or deck plate, before installing it onto the sink.

Apply a continuous rope of plumber's putty or silicone sealant around the underside of the new faucet's base or deck plate that will contact the sink surface. This creates a watertight seal to prevent water from seeping under the faucet.

Carefully lower the new faucet assembly into the mounting holes on the sink deck. From under the sink, thread the mounting nuts onto the faucet shanks. Hand-tighten them initially.

Using a basin wrench or adjustable wrench, tighten the mounting nuts securely. Do not overtighten, as this could damage the sink or faucet. Ensure the faucet is stable and does not wiggle.

Connect the appropriate hot and cold water supply lines to the corresponding inlets on the new faucet. Then, connect the other ends of the supply lines to the shut-off valves. Hand-tighten the connections first, then use a wrench to snug them up, being careful not to overtighten.