Set the Toilet — Reinstall the Toilet
Part of project
How to Replace a Cast Iron Toilet Flange with PVC · Step 9 of 10
In this video
After the flange extender is securely screwed down, the final steps are to prepare for the toilet installation. Insert new closet bolts into the slots on the yellow extender. Place a new wax ring onto the extender. Finally, carefully lower the toilet onto the flange, aligning the holes in its base with the closet bolts, and press down firmly to set the toilet and create a watertight seal.
Goal: Complete the toilet installation
Used in this video
- Adjustable Wrench (Tool Type: Hand Tools, Power Source: Manual) — Tightening the nuts on the closet bolts to secure the toilet.
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FAQs
How difficult is replacing a cast iron toilet flange with PVC, and how long should I expect it to take?
This project is rated as intermediate. While it doesn't require specialized plumbing skills, removing the old cast iron and lead/oakum seal can be physically demanding and time-consuming. Expect it to take anywhere from half a day to a full day, especially if you encounter unexpected issues like a stubborn old flange.
What specialized tools are absolutely essential for removing the old cast iron flange and its lead/oakum seal?
Beyond basic household tools, you'll definitely need a cold chisel and a hammer for breaking up the old cast iron and carefully removing the lead/oakum seal. A shop vacuum is also crucial for quickly cleaning up debris and ensuring the cast iron pipe is spotless before installing the new flange.
What are the most important safety precautions I should take when demolishing the old cast iron flange and seal?
Always wear heavy-duty safety glasses to protect against flying fragments and a respirator (like the Honeywell R95) to avoid inhaling dust and potential lead particles from the old seal. Heavy-duty gloves are also essential to protect your hands from sharp edges and the demolition tools.
What's a common mistake when installing the new PVC compression flange, and how can I avoid it?
A common mistake is not thoroughly cleaning and deburring the inside of the cast iron pipe after removing the old flange. Any rough edges, rust, or debris can compromise the compression seal of the new PVC flange, leading to leaks. Ensure the pipe's interior is smooth and completely clean for a watertight fit.
Set the Toilet — Reinstall the Toilet
Part of project
How to Replace a Cast Iron Toilet Flange with PVC · Step 9 of 10
In this video
After the flange extender is securely screwed down, the final steps are to prepare for the toilet installation. Insert new closet bolts into the slots on the yellow extender. Place a new wax ring onto the extender. Finally, carefully lower the toilet onto the flange, aligning the holes in its base with the closet bolts, and press down firmly to set the toilet and create a watertight seal.
Goal: Complete the toilet installation
Used in this video
- Adjustable Wrench (Tool Type: Hand Tools, Power Source: Manual) — Tightening the nuts on the closet bolts to secure the toilet.
Frequently Asked Questions
How difficult is replacing a cast iron toilet flange with PVC, and how long should I expect it to take?
This project is rated as intermediate. While it doesn't require specialized plumbing skills, removing the old cast iron and lead/oakum seal can be physically demanding and time-consuming. Expect it to take anywhere from half a day to a full day, especially if you encounter unexpected issues like a stubborn old flange.
What specialized tools are absolutely essential for removing the old cast iron flange and its lead/oakum seal?
Beyond basic household tools, you'll definitely need a cold chisel and a hammer for breaking up the old cast iron and carefully removing the lead/oakum seal. A shop vacuum is also crucial for quickly cleaning up debris and ensuring the cast iron pipe is spotless before installing the new flange.
What are the most important safety precautions I should take when demolishing the old cast iron flange and seal?
Always wear heavy-duty safety glasses to protect against flying fragments and a respirator (like the Honeywell R95) to avoid inhaling dust and potential lead particles from the old seal. Heavy-duty gloves are also essential to protect your hands from sharp edges and the demolition tools.
What's a common mistake when installing the new PVC compression flange, and how can I avoid it?
A common mistake is not thoroughly cleaning and deburring the inside of the cast iron pipe after removing the old flange. Any rough edges, rust, or debris can compromise the compression seal of the new PVC flange, leading to leaks. Ensure the pipe's interior is smooth and completely clean for a watertight fit.